The Watches & Wonders fair opens its doors this Tuesday, 14 April. For this seventh edition, 65 exhibitors are expected at the Palexpo venue in Geneva, where they will share 77,000 square metres of exhibition space. A record. Last year, the fair attracted 55,000 visitors, including 1,500 journalists. The organisers are expecting 60,000 visitors and 1,600 journalists this year. Including Paperjam. More than 50,000 guest nights have been booked and 7,000 people are on hand to ensure the week runs smoothly.
The Watches & Wonders fair as we know it today has been running since 2020. Organised by the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation, it succeeded the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), established in 1991 to compete with the Basel Watch Fair (Baselworld), which dates back to 1931 and ceased to exist in 2019, with the editions scheduled for 2020 and 2021 unable to take place due to Covid. In just a few years, this fair has become the showcase for the watchmaking ecosystem, bringing together the industry’s key players. With the exception of the Breitling brand and the Swatch Group. The latter, which comprises 17 brands including Omega, Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Tissot, Hamilton and Swatch, has ceased participating in such events since 2018 and is focusing on a direct communication strategy to better manage its visibility. This is not the approach taken by Audemars Piguet, which is making a comeback this year. The Le Brassus-based manufacturer will be joined by 11 new brands, including Corum, Sinn Spezzialuhren, Favre Leuba and March L.A.B.
Alongside the main exhibition, other events are being organised: Time to Watch — now in its second year — is opening its doors to independent brands. The same goes for the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) and Chronopolis. Finally, other brands will be exhibiting independently and holding exhibitions at various venues across the city.
Speculation is rife
On the programme this week: new releases, previews, exceptional timepieces and innovations. The final three days will be open to the general public. Visitors will be able to enjoy a free cultural programme combining exhibitions, talks and music in collaboration with the Montreux Jazz Club. As for the new releases, the brands are keeping everyone in suspense for now. The return of Audemars Piguet — a member of the watchmaking “Holy Trinity” alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin — which has been absent from trade fairs since 2019, is generating a great deal of anticipation. The new releases announced will make the headlines, whether they be a new model, an evolution of an existing range or the announcement of a new complication.
Announcements from Rolex are also eagerly anticipated. Speculation is rife: 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of the waterproof Oyster case and the 70th anniversary of the Milgauss watch, production of which ceased three years ago. Announcements cannot be ruled out. The Geneva-based brand is also expected to announce which models will be discontinued in 2026: the GMT Master II Pepsi seems to be in the firing line. But its disappearance would be offset by the return of the Coke bezel. Tudor, Rolex’s little brother, also has an anniversary to celebrate: its centenary. Speculation is rife about a new chronograph line inspired by the 1970s “Big Block” model. Another brand in the spotlight: H. Moser & Co. The Schaffhausen-based manufacturer is leaving the Watchmakers’ Square — the area dedicated to independent watchmakers — and moving into the main hall, taking the space vacated by Montblanc, which has decided not to participate this year. Moser is renowned for its technical innovations and its sleek, bold design.
Trends for 2026
In terms of trends, 2026 is expected to see a continued shift towards more compact case sizes, in the range of 36mm to 39mm. Whilst vintage styles remain a major source of inspiration for brands, they are now focusing more on reinterpretation rather than reissues, combining historical elements with modern engineering. Innovation in materials is likely to remain a key differentiator. Lightweight titanium, exclusive gold alloys, advanced ceramics and improved anti-magnetic components are sure to feature. Dials made from semi-precious stones, which have flooded the market in recent months, are also expected to continue to gain ground.
When it comes to technical features and complications, skeletonisation and openwork are all the rage, to the point where they have become a must for any ambitious watchmaker. These manufacturers make it a point of honour to pay close attention to what lies beneath the surface: longer power reserves, more efficient escapements and slimmer automatic calibres may not attract much media attention, but they guarantee the long-term quality of a collection.
Another topic will also be on everyone’s lips: the impact of the war in the Middle East on the industry. A real-time challenge for the entire Swiss watchmaking industry. The Middle East is a market that has, until now, been growing steadily, accounting for up to 10% of production and worth 1.3 billion Swiss francs in 2025, compared with 180 million in 2000. This growth would help offset the stagnation of the Chinese market.
