Complications reimagined and ever more sophisticated, even spectacular; new designs that weave between heritage and the immediate future: brands are no longer content merely to tell the time; they want to master time itself. The parallel with Andy Warhol is striking. This compulsive collector, who chose his watches based on their design, wore a gold Cartier Tank that he never wound, thereby asserting that one always has time. Brands have become ‘statements’. They tell stories of extreme precision, reimagined materials and reaffirmed craftsmanship. Assertions and values that the customer embraces as their own.
On this opening morning, visitors – and journalists in particular – don’t really have a clear view of what’s going on. Announcements of new products come thick and fast from one stand to the next.
New releases from Rolex to mark its centenary
Whilst it may not be the first to make a move, Rolex is certainly the most eagerly anticipated. The Geneva-based manufacturer has unveiled its new releases for 2026, which were quickly dubbed ‘the centenary collection’ on the show floor. An anniversary embodied by the new Oyster Perpetual 41, described as ‘an echo of its origins’. It is available in a yellow Rolesor version, a combination of materials featuring a yellow gold bezel and winding crown paired with an Oystersteel case and bracelet. These touches of yellow gold are reminiscent of the design of some of the earliest Oyster watches. The winding crown is adorned with the number ‘100’, which appears in relief. And on the slate-coloured dial, the words ‘100 years’ appear at 6 o’clock, where the ‘Swiss Made’ inscription is usually found.
Rolex also offers a new Oyster Perpetual 36, which stands out thanks to its dial featuring a reimagined Jubilee pattern. This design showcases the letters of the name ‘Rolex’ through a play of contrasts combining a total of ten shades. TheOyster Perpetual 28 and theOyster Perpetual 34 are crafted in 18-carat yellow gold or Everose gold. These luxurious versions are available with lacquered dials – in green stone and blue stone respectively – featuring natural stone hour markers at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock.
A new shaded dial makes its debut on the Datejust 41 in a grey Rolesor version. This elegant green dial is entirely coloured using a lacquer finish – a first since the return of ombré dials to the brand’s collection in 2019. The Yachtmaster II has also been updated, both inside and out. It is available in Oystersteel or 18-carat yellow gold. The new version of this regatta chronograph features a completely redesigned case and movement.
The Day-Date – the ‘Presidents’ watch’ – is now available in 18-carat Jubilee Gold, a precious alloy whose hue ranges from soft yellow to warm grey and delicate pink, making its debut on an exclusive version of the Day featuring a light green aventurine dial. Last but not least, the iconic chronograph Daytona is now available in a Rolesium version – a proprietary alloy combining steel and platinum – featuring a white enamel dial.
Patek Philippe surprises
Patek Philippe celebrates its 50th the anniversary of one of its flagship collections, the Nautilus. An iconic watch available in four new versions: two 41mm models, one 38mm model and a white gold desk clock fitted with the in-house 8-day calibre. Whilst the first three models retain the design cues of the original, inspired by a marine porthole and displaying only the hours and minutes, the fourth model comes as a surprise. A surprise that quickly becomes a favourite. Still on the anniversary theme: Patek Philippe is offering two new annual calendars to mark the 30th anniversary of this complication.
Another surprise: The Crow and the Fox. A reinterpretation of a pocket watch inspired by Jean de La Fontaine’s famous fable, displaying the hours and minutes on demand. A model created in 1958. With a press of the push-button at 2 o’clock, the fox indicates the hours with its paw or snout. Holding the push-button down, the minute hand—decorated with a piece of cheese at its tip—then drops from the raven’s beak to indicate the minutes on a graduated scale. Once the push-button is released after reading the time, the retrograde indicators return to their resting positions.
Hermès and Chanel are blurring the lines
For Hermès, a watch is, above all, an object with a story of its own to tell. An approach that blends design, watchmaking and presentation. From a watchmaking perspective, three new creations are being unveiled at the fair: the watches Hermès H08 Skeleton, Samarcande Hoop and Hermès Slim Skeleton Moon. Three watches that all reveal the inner workings of their mysterious mechanisms, “like windows opening onto the backstage of time”. Designer and artist Jean-Simon Roch showcases them at the heart of a mobile installation where horological mechanics interact with theatrical machinery. A huge hit with visitors.
At Chanel, alongside the new versions of the flagship J-12 and Première ranges, which are being showcased, the highlight of this year’s event is the new capsule collection named Coco Game, 14 playful timepieces. Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of Chanel Watchmaking, draws inspiration from the visual codes of the world of gaming – video games, of course, with a retro-gaming twist, but also card games and chess. Throughout the collection, the founder, Mademoiselle Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, is ever-present in her signature suit. The iconic J12 accounts for a significant portion of the 14-piece collection, featuring no fewer than five models. These models give diamonds pride of place.
Tudor carries on
As for Tudor, the brand is relaunching the Monarch. This model features a 39mm faceted steel case, a matching strap with clean lines, and a dark champagne-coloured dial combining Roman and Arabic numerals. The manufacturer also offers a new version of the Black Bay in a ‘Tudor blue’ finish, in a 37mm case – its original size. The developments in the Black Bay 58 are primarily technical improvements, resulting in a thickness reduced to 11.7mm. The range features a model Greenwich Mean Time and a model in black ceramic. Renowned for its watches for adventurers, Tudor is expanding its range Royal, now available in a wide range of colours and featuring a redesigned notched bezel.
