Ultimately, Yann Boutant aims to make Kerquest a key player in a digital ecosystem that brings together manufacturers, retailers and collectors. Photo: Marc Fassone/Paperjam

Ultimately, Yann Boutant aims to make Kerquest a key player in a digital ecosystem that brings together manufacturers, retailers and collectors. Photo: Marc Fassone/Paperjam

The start-up Kerquest is shaking up the world of watch identification. Its promise? To recognise each timepiece as a unique entity based on its intrinsic physical characteristics, without any added markings. A deep dive into a technology that transforms the material itself into a medium for certainty and communication.

A dedicated start-up zone at a trade fair focused on watchmaking and luxury goods might seem counter-intuitive. But not really. Kerquest’s origins lie in a fundamental observation made in the paper industry, an industry even older and more traditional than watchmaking. The observation? “At a microscopic level, no two sheets of paper are ever identical.” In 2014, the start-up’s president and founder, Yann Boutant, translated this ‘intuition’ into cutting-edge technology for all manufactured objects: ‘The material has its own scars.’

In watchmaking, where precision reigns supreme, this physical reality becomes a hallmark. Contrary to the cultural belief that mass production creates identical objects, Kerquest operates on the principle that two watches from the same line are ‘two worlds in themselves’, rich in unique information that can be captured and utilised. Officially launched in 2014, the company has transformed this insight into cutting-edge technology.

The contactless revolution

Where Kerquest aims to make a difference is in the complete absence of any physical markings in its solution. “Whereas others rely on engravings, QR codes or microchips, Kerquest uses computer vision and artificial intelligence. “Through a simple play of light on the material, the system reveals microscopic details that guarantee the piece’s uniqueness,” explains the founder. This “algorithmic formula”, protected by 60 patents, makes it possible to identify the object without ever touching it or altering its appearance – a compelling argument for fine watchmakers concerned about the integrity of their creations.

The process consists of two stages. The part is registered during production – in the factory, in other words – using specialised machines capable of processing parts either individually or in batches. “This is where the technical complexity lies.” The verification process, “designed to be completely straightforward”, is carried out using a simple smartphone. Verification allows a piece to be authenticated.

From the workshop to the wrist: the example of Hublot

The Kerquest solution is already up and running at Hublot. Customers who own a watch produced after 2020 can download a dedicated app to verify the authenticity of their watch and access the brand’s services. The product thus becomes a secure ‘communication channel’ between the manufacturer and its owner.

Whilst the solution currently applies to ‘new’ products, there is nothing to prevent it from being rolled out in a specific segment of the watch industry: the pre-owned market and, more broadly, the fight against counterfeiting. Provided that a third party – a brand developing a Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme such as Rolex, or a platform selling pre-owned watches – handles the certification of the timepieces. Once certified by these legitimate authorities, “the timepiece is as good as new and becomes traceable without any possibility of error for the rest of its life”. This represents a major opportunity for brands wishing to regain control of their secondary market, believes Yann Boutant.

The first clients for the Kerquest solution came from the cosmetics and leather goods industries. From cosmetics to watchmaking—two sectors united by their association with luxury—it was only a short step. But Kerquest is also making its mark across industry as a whole.

Horizon 2030: towards a unified watchmaking ecosystem

Having taken part in this year’s CES in Las Vegas and Watches and Wonders, Kerquest aims to accelerate its commercial development with a view to becoming a ‘platform operator’ within five years. “The aim is to build a bridge between often fragmented players – major brands, after-sales services (SAV), collectors and smaller, more niche houses – by setting a new standard of trust.”