At the helm is David Michel, already head of Bouillon Batignolles in Metz, Nancy and Thionville. He’s no stranger to the concept. As a reminder, bouillons originated in the 19th century to feed the working classes with simmered dishes and so-called "ungrateful" cuts. A tradition that has come back into fashion in France and is finally coming to Luxembourg.
Kitsch on full blast
Located in the former Come à la Mer, within Come à la Maison, Bouillon Batignolles Luxembourg is clearly not one for discretion. As soon as you open the door, you realise the ambition: this is Paris on acid. A three-metre-high Eiffel Tower looks you straight in the eye, Montmartre is spread out like a giant on an entire wall, the inscription “Moulin Rouge” clatters like a knowing wink, the Olympia struts around in an almost life-size version… and then, without warning, an entire wall covered with Barbies. Not all pink, not all well-behaved: a patchwork of dolls as unlikely as they are mesmerising.
We don’t really know whether we love it or hate it, but we’re clearly ready to play the game. And with the kitchens open onto the dining room, the place is constantly buzzing: it’s moving, it’s bustling, you can see everything and hear everything. It’s impossible to get bored, even while you’re waiting for your dish.
Fast, without fuss
On the plate, we’ve put our trust in the classics. For starters, the inevitable egg mayo: homemade mayonnaise with a good dose of mustard, egg a little overcooked but still soft. For the main courses, the pike quenelle and the bouchée à la reine hold up surprisingly well. Two recipes that can quickly turn into disasters if botched, but here the sauces are good, the accompaniments well seasoned and the quality quite reasonable for the prices. It's warm, comforting, without unnecessary pretension.
We finish with a Valrhona chocolate profiterole (yes, Valrhona at this price) and a sweet, fragrant "all pistachio" cup that more than holds its own. Nothing too sweet, nothing too heavy, just what you need to finish the meal gently. As for the service, it's in the spirit of the brasserie: fast, without fuss, with a few touches of humour on the menu ("I've been naughty, so I don't get a dessert"). And the bill? Between €20 and €30 per person. In Luxembourg, that's close to a sporting performance. A welcome bonus: a few references to Schmit-Fohl, a certified organic Luxembourg company, in wines and aperitifs. A local touch in a setting that is as Parisian as it gets.
