Contemporary art, free drinks
Behind the Mudam, the Parc des Trois-Glands offers something quite rare: an unobstructed view of the lower town, a lawn as vast as one’s ambitions, and the slightly snobbish satisfaction of eating just a stone’s throw from a contemporary art museum without having paid the entrance fee. It’s the spot for beautiful linen blankets, carefully arranged platters of charcuterie (or a divine sandwich from La Grocerie) and bottles of natural wine uncorked with an air of nonchalance. The view does the job, the grass does the rest. We recommend arriving early at the weekend; the regulars have long since realised that this is the capital’s best open-air restaurant, and they’re not keeping it to themselves.
Address: Parc des Trois-Glands, behind the Mudam, 2 Park Dräi Eechelen, Luxembourg (Kirchberg)
For those who aren't keen on flower-filled parks
Let’s be honest: Belval isn’t for everyone. The blast furnaces aren’t to everyone’s taste (some see industrial beauty, others see rust). But that’s precisely what makes the place interesting. Here, you eat with the weight of history on your shoulders: these metal structures dominating the esplanade turned for decades, shaping generations of Luxembourgish working-class families, before coming to a sudden halt. There is something rather strange and rather powerful about unpacking a picnic in this setting (between the students of the brand-new university and the ghosts of a Luxembourg we tend to forget all too quickly). For the curious, the stubborn, those allergic to overly pristine lawns. And for those who like their lunch to tell a story.
Address: Esplanade des Hauts-Fourneaux, Belval
Glow, plunge, start again
Lake Esch-sur-Sûre isn’t just a place to pop in for a quick bite. It’s a proper outing. You arrive, find a spot on the grassy bank, light the barbecue (the grills are provided, free of charge, and perfectly sized for a lovely sizzling sausage) and spend your time shuttling back and forth between the embers and the lake at a pace you’d love to adopt for good. Swimming is permitted from 1 May, and there is something deeply satisfying about eating a still-smouldering merguez whilst basking in the sun. The paths around the lake serve as an appetiser for those who want to work up an appetite. For everyone else, the view is more than enough.
Address: Lake Esch-sur-Sûre/Stauséi, Insenborn, Upper Sûre Lake municipality
Our banks of the Seine, but even better
Parisians have the Seine, its quays and their well-oiled rituals. We have the Alzette. You walk down from the plateau; the city fades away within a few metres, and you find yourself by the water’s edge with a soft lawn, perfectly placed shade and a tranquillity that rivals that of a private garden. It’s the perfect spot for picnics that we take the time to prepare: a good country loaf, a perfectly ripened soft cheese, a carefully chosen bottle (or an elegant sandwich from LaMie, for the less adventurous).
Address: Banks of the Pétrusse, accessible from the Adolphe Bridge or Pétrusse Park, Luxembourg (city centre)
The classic that never disappoints
Merl Park is the place to go for a laid-back atmosphere; and that’s a real plus. A large lawn, well-placed trees, trampolines for the kids in summer, and the peaceful feel of a residential neighbourhood that makes you want to stretch your meal out over three hours without a shred of guilt. You don’t come here for the view or the thrill of the new; you come because it’s nice, it’s convenient, and there’s always space, even on a sunny Sunday. It’s the park of well-stocked cool boxes, much-loved pasta salads, and cakes taken out of Tupperware.
Address: Parc de Merl, Rue de Merl, Luxembourg (Merl)
And for the die-hard fans of Kirchberg
There is one last resort for those who can’t bear to be away from their computers. The small green space opposite the Arendthouse in Kirchberg offers a patch of urban lawn just a stone’s throw from everything; and just a stone’s throw from the Chez Ugo open-air café, which has just launched its summer season. Spread out a blanket, eat your sandwich, and if you’re lacking motivation, the bar is right there. What more could you ask for?
The green space opposite the Arendthouse in Kirchberg, just a stone’s throw from the Chez Ugo open-air café. (Photo: Paperjam)
