His menu changes with the seasons (twelve ganaches, four of which are permanent fixtures, plus a ‘surprise of the month’ to ‘let off a bit of steam’) and the mixed boxes allow even the less adventurous to discover combinations they would never have chosen for themselves. ‘Lots of people have told us they’ve discovered things they didn’t know existed.’

She sticks to her principles right to the end: no plastic in the packaging, and no middlemen so she doesn’t lose control. “If it’s sold in a supermarket and it looks rubbish, it’ll always come back to haunt me.” She prefers to deliver the goods herself, chilled, via Letz Shop.

Esch, after all, is her home (she was born there and lives there), and she stands by that choice with quiet confidence. “I’d rather start small and perhaps expand later, than start big and end up failing.” Five years on, the business is still going strong.

This article was written for the May 2026 issue of Paperjam magazine, published on 29 April. The content is produced exclusively for the magazine. It is published on the site to contribute to Paperjam’s comprehensive archive. Click on this link to subscribe to the magazine.

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