The Café de Paris has been around since 1925. Everyone knows it; everyone has been there. But since 13 April, it’s a different story. Closed in January, stripped back to its bare bones, and reinvented in barely three months by the Luxembourg-based firm Njoy – The venue has been given a new lease of life without losing its soul. And for Le Place d’Armes hotel, which owns the premises, this sends a strong message: the Café de Paris is not just a hotel restaurant; it is a destination in its own right, designed with the city in mind as much as with its guests.
A design by Njoy: a tribute to artisans
Behind the project are interior architect Jill Streitz and interior designer Max Heldenstein. Their response to the brief (to recreate a typical Parisian brasserie) was to take a clever departure from it. Rather than copying, they distilled: the Orient Express in the curves of the wood panelling, a retro-futuristic bar, and the zinc of old bistros in the pewter counter. These are evocations that are present but never literal, constructing a sense of memory without descending into pastiche.
The colour scheme is understated and warm – stained wood, brushed stainless steel, velvet, leather and matt mosaic. The mirrors, integrated into the wood panelling in a continuous, enveloping line, play a central role: they extend the sense of space, amplify the light and allow guests, even when facing the wall, to take in the atmosphere of the venue. The double-layered illuminated ceiling, visible from the square, catches the eye. The acoustics, designed with an audiophile’s eye, reproduce the presence of voices and instruments even at low volumes.
An obsession with detail does the rest: bespoke Parisian tables, Portuguese mosaics, authentic Bauhaus chairs, and joinery designed piece by piece. For the windows, the Victor Berthe workshop, a rare master of stained-glass painting who works notably for the Panthéon in Paris. All this in three months, including demolition – bucking the trend for the ephemeral, as Streitz and Heldenstein themselves claim.
A classic brasserie with a few pleasant surprises
The atmosphere is that of a Parisian brasserie with a Scandinavian twist, somewhere between retro and futuristic. The service is just as good: attentive and friendly, without being over the top. Blaring from the speakers are France Gall and Pascal Obispo – it’s a matter of taste.
Chef Dominik Ambros’s menu doesn’t set out to reinvent the genre, and that’s just fine. For starters, the truffle-flavoured devilled eggs are a real hit – creamy homemade mayonnaise with a subtly balanced hint of truffle. The leek vinaigrette, however, is a tad too tame: the sweetness of the confit leek takes over where one might have expected a bit more bite.
As a main course, the burger is unsurprising but well prepared; the bouchée à la reine fares better – nicely creamy, with generous chunks of chicken that really come through. For those with a smaller appetite, there’s the classic ham and butter sandwich or a perfectly gratinated onion soup. For dessert, the Bamkuch cream puff is indulgent, but the cream leans more towards butter than whipped cream, which feels a bit heavy at the end of the meal. The apple tartlet, on the other hand, is frankly delicious: a well-buttered shortcrust pastry, crisp just as it should be.
The whole experience is well put together, with some lovely little touches that remind you of the genuine culinary expertise on display. It’s not the sort of restaurant that’s going to set the world alight, but in such a beautiful setting, it more than holds its own. And the cocktails, carefully crafted by the barman, are well worth a try.
Address: Café de Paris, 18 Place d’Armes, Luxembourg City.
