Behind its sober, elegant façade in the heart of Luxembourg’s old town, the grand ducal palace conceals a refined interior steeped in history. Far from the overpowering grandeur of Versailles, it’s much more than just an institutional building, a fitting embodiment of the unique character of the grand duchy. For here, let us not forget, the head of state is a grand duke--a world exception.
The palace is entered from the rear, opposite the formal entrance flanked by its two famous sentry boxes. From the first steps, the tone is set: a grand marble staircase, wrought iron balustrade and touches of malachite green. A personal favourite is the matching table and vases, subtly placed between two flights of stairs.
The building was not originally a palace. Built as a town hall in 1418, when Luxembourg was just a fortified town, it has evolved over the centuries. Accidental gunpowder explosion, baroque extensions, transformation into a royal residence during the personal union with the Netherlands… It was only in 1890 that it officially became the grand ducal palace. While the accession to the throne takes place in the Chamber of Deputies, as will be the case on 3 October, it was in this palace--and more precisely in its solemn heart--that abdications take place.
The tour--led by Patrick François, a passionate and fascinating official guide--focuses on the first floor, reserved for representative functions: ceremonial rooms, dining room, kings’ room and the grand duke’s study. The latter impresses with its sobriety and above all its function: it is here that the head of state receives the prime minister, in a confidential face-to-face meeting with no witnesses for exchanges that are kept secret.
Fans of decoration will appreciate the tapestries, period furniture, porcelain, weapons and numerous works of art. The dominant style is Napoleon III, without being ostentatious. “A delicate house,” says the guide. And this delicacy can be felt everywhere, including in the attention to detail: from the parquet flooring to the ceilings, from the lamps to the wardrobes, everything is thought through, balanced.
A series of stained glass windows and coats of arms also serve as a reminder of the complex links between Luxembourg and Nassau. The attentive visitor will learn to distinguish between the red lion--the emblem of Luxembourg--and the golden lion--the symbol of the House of Nassau. Another fascinating feature is the “monograms,” or small coats of arms of the various sovereigns, displayed as watermarks throughout the tour. The visit is as instructive as it is enjoyable, learning, for example, who were Luxembourg’s favourite sovereigns. Spoiler alert: they gave their names to a city square and a bridge.
While visitors often enjoy the dining room, others prefer the reception rooms or the monumental tapestries that tell the tale of myth and splendour. The salle des fêtes is a regular venue for official receptions and photo shoots, while the majestic grand staircase is ideal for formal photographs. Downstairs, a small photo exhibition features the current grand ducal couple, humanising a place that remains above all inhabited and functional. Upstairs, you can see the door linking the palace to the Chamber of Deputies. It is closed. The symbolism is strong: here, the separation of powers is not an abstract principle.
The private part of the palace, the second floor, remains--alas--inaccessible.
Organised every summer by the Luxembourg City Tourist Office (LCTO), the guided tour of the palace is a rare opportunity to enter the intimacy of the Luxembourg state. Tours are available in French, English, German and Luxembourgish and last just over an hour and fifteen minutes. This year, the doors are open until 31 August. Tickets are going fast, and for good reason: a third have already found takers.
This article was originally published in French.
