Chef Sébastien Perrot is not resting on his laurels. The head of the kitchen at l’Étoile restaurant on the top floor of the Sofitel Le Grand Ducal has recently made some significant changes to the look and content of his menu.
The most obvious change is cosmetic--the menu is now a clean and accessible broadsheet format labelled “Expecting the unexpected”. As if to prove a point, an illustration of a chandelier bedecked with pairs of lobster claws adorns the front of the menu.
The interior features a mouth-watering à la carte selection, which also includes a section that Perrot has labelled “Little Italie” (withdishes such as vitello tonnato) and a choice of dishes that conform with the Sofitel’s own calorie controlled “De-light” label. In addition, some dishes are available in reduced portions.
A seasonal market menu provides a weekly alternative to the à la carte.
But it is the main programme that allows Perrot to showcase his skills. Starters such as a crab meat remoulade with mango and coriander, poached egg and Parmesan crisp are beautifully presented, while even a more simple dish such as Cod ravioli with smoked bacon in a light potato cream with olive oil is a feast for the eyes (and Perrot manages to get each delicate flavour to shine).
Main courses are equally impressive. Pan-fried scallops with citrus fruits, cauliflower puree with hazelnut, and crunchy cauliflower is served on
a wooden plate. A dish of beef cheek on a red wine and lemongrass sauce, mashed pot-au-feu style vegetables and pan-fried foie gras is a wonderful balance of the earthy and exotic.
The exotic is also well represented in the dessert selection (a Japanese inspired
Sudachi juice iced mousse with buckwheat and fermented yuzu bursts with citrus flavours), while diners can also plump for a selection of ripened French cheeses. This sort of food, coupled with exquisite and friendly but not overly familiar service, is not cheap but well worth the experience.
Where: Sofitel Le Grand Ducal, boulevard d’Avranches, Luxembourg-Gare
When: Mon-Sat, 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00