Belgian family firm Lamy Group . Situated between the two lakes of Weiswampach in northern Luxembourg, the hotel boasts an exceptional natural setting.
In addition to its 90 rooms, the hotel has a bar and a restaurant, Sensa. The menu, devised by Belgian chef Yves Mattagne (La Villa Lorraine in Brussels, two Michelin stars), is implemented on a daily basis by executive chef Valentin Beck (ex-Ma Langue Sourit).
For our visit, we went to Sensa on a Friday evening. It’s easy to get to from the road, and there’s plenty of parking. However, as night had already fallen, the natural environment--lakes and forest--were difficult to see. It’s a shame.
After passing through the reception area and past the bar, which is on the right, we head for the restaurant counter, located at the end of an elegant glass-walled wine cellar.
Although the establishment has only recently opened, several tables are already occupied by a varied public--small groups, couples, young and old. A good sign. A discreet musical ambience adorns the space.
The decor is meticulous, with the room organised into small islands around interior trees and cloud-like lights. To one side is the glassed-in wine cellar and a counter dedicated to service.
At the far end, a long counter allows you to sit facing the open kitchen and admire the work of the brigade. A successful setting.
Once you’ve settled in, you can choose to sample the four-course Gourmand menu (€75 per person; for a drinks pairing--with or without alcohol--add €30).
We start with the cold starters: Saku tuna tataki, delicately paired with tamarind gazpacho, topped with fennel and cucumber for a touch of crunch, and dry-aged Wagyu beef rolled around grissini and roquette, served with Harry’s Bar sauce.
While the tuna tataki totally won us over, we were a little puzzled by the choice of presentation for the carpaccio, which did not sufficiently highlight this dish, despite the excellent quality of the meat.
We continue with a hot starter: langoustine dumplings (ravioli), served with kimchi, verbena, pear and white consommé--a very successful combination. The other dish, miso aubergine with black sesame and Buddha's hand, offers an immediate change of scenery that brings you to Asia.
And a surprise awaits on the plate: the dish is sprinkled with katsuobushi (dried fish, an essential ingredient in Japanese cuisine), so finely grated that it comes alive in the air. A playful visual effect!
For the main course, the back of cod confit in olive oil is perfectly mastered. The accompaniment also takes us to Asia, with yuzu butter, smoked sobacha and wasabi root. As for the meat, there’s a fine offering: a fillet of beef parilla style of excellent quality, served with fried onions and wok-fried vegetables. Once again, the quality of the meat is to be commended.
Finally, it was time for dessert. And here, a big disappointment. The desserts are not at all up to the standard of the rest of the menu.
The revisted Dame Blanche lacks visual appeal. Whilst the entire meal was served in elegant crockery, this dessert was presented in a sort of tall plastic bowl, placed unsteadily in a wooden receptacle. In terms of taste, it’s good, but we regret ending on this note.
Another option: roasted pineapple with spices. Certainly a better choice, with juicy fruit and a delicious quenelle of mango ice cream.
The service was friendly, attentive and professional. On the drinks front, the wine pairing varied between local--with a special mention for the Vignum Rubis from Vinsmoselle, a blend of pinot noir, merlot and zweigelt--and international wines. The non-alcoholic offer included a selection of suitable cocktails, with a particular favourite being the Vibrant Martini with raspberry.
The whole meal went very well and was an opportunity to discover a fine cuisine which, thanks to some really interesting taste combinations, awakens the taste buds while remaining very accessible.
And for those who want to try out wine and food pairing or simply enjoy the setting of this new hotel, rooms are available to extend the experience... and why not organise a hike in the forest the next day?
, 32 Weilwerdangerstrooss, Weiswampach
This article was originally published in .