Founded in 1950 by the Tani family, Ristorante Roma has survived decades without ever losing its deep-rooted identity. Even when the owners have changed--first the Musculus family, followed by the Murador-Raccogli family, then Giuseppe Parrino for 25 years and finally Paul Mreches since last year--the place has remained true to its reputation: a serious, stable restaurant, inhabited by a close-knit team and a loyal clientele.
“I used to come to this restaurant when I was a child, with my parents, then later with my wife and children,” explains Mreches. “It was one of the few places where I continued to eat as a customer. It had a soul. I didn’t want that to stop.”
When the opportunity to take over the business arose, he said yes, but not on any terms. “It’s not something I took over to change behind. Otherwise, I would have opened a new business next door. The idea was to keep the tradition alive. To see how the place lives, and adapt.”
The link with the history of the place is also woven through the walls. “These are still the same owners. The founder’s daughter is still alive. She told me that they were happy for the name to continue. It’s emotional,” says Mreches.
Real, homemade cooking
“We work every day. We make everything ourselves, from the stocks to the sauces and the pasta. It takes people, time and technique. But that’s what people come for.”
The menu mixes homemade classics with seasonal suggestions. To mark its 75th anniversary, Roma has launched a “Festival Anniversario,” a selection of emblematic dishes chosen by the customers themselves. The result: a “best of” that is firmly rooted in the tastes of the place, and in the memories of the regulars.
The Italian sausage and scarmoza lasagne, for example, beats all records. “We thought it would be too wintery, but we sell a lot of it.” Macaroni with lobster, a dish served en papillote, has also become a cult item. Guinea fowl in a puff pastry crust, opened at the table in a cloud of truffle, combines a discreet show with an enveloping fragrance. And then there’s the lamb that’s cooked for seven hours, served with potato gratin and spinach fondue. “It’s very old school, but people love it,” the owner tells us.
Far from disguised menus or flashy titles, each dish has a story, a technique, and a hand behind it. Chef José, who has been in the job for 26 years, works closely with the owner, who is also often in the kitchen. “I give him carte blanche. He knows the house, I bring in ideas, we test and adjust.”
And what about desserts? They’re being reinvented. “Some have been there for ten years. We’re in the process of reviewing everything. It’s tricky with a clientele of regulars, but you have to dare in small steps.”
The changes over the past year have been gradual. A revised antipasti menu is one of them. “Before, it was a plate to share; now, everyone composes it according to their tastes.”
New crockery for the 75th anniversary is also in the pipeline, with the house logo on it. “It was very old school, so we’ve modernised a bit, but without breaking the rhythm.” Eventually, the upper floor of the restaurant will be redesigned to better accommodate groups. “A lot of people want peace and quiet, especially politicians, lawyers and regulars. Upstairs is quieter, it’s almost gastro, even if we don’t claim it that way.”
The watchword remains the same: don’t betray the soul. Mreches adds: “We have a special clientele here. A lot of Luxembourgers, regulars who come once a week. Some people have been coming here for 30 years. So we have to be careful. Go slowly.”
When asked what has really kept the Roma going for 75 years, his answer is straightforward. “It’s the people. The customers, but above all the team. The staff are the soul of the place. If they feel good, the customers feel it.”
This article was originally published in .