Lucien Elsen’s Mesa Verde spirit

Mesa Verde, Lucien Elsen’s vegetarian restaurant, which has become a cult party venue, has just celebrated its 35th anniversary. All generations meet here for the many parties that punctuate the year. But it’s the one on 25 December that, without ever having been thought of as a real “club night”, has become the big one that can’t be missed.

How did Mesa Verde become a mythical party venue?

“It all started because we were bored. I’d bring back here people I’d met on my travels: San Francisco, India, Brazil... Some never left. Maxwell George, whom I met in London, became the country’s first resident DJ and the godfather of house music. Others did the decorations or the first Halloween parties. It was this small, very authentic microcosm that built the myth. Nothing was planned, it all happened naturally.

What made 25 December a mystical evening?

“For years, only the initiated knew to come on that night. The energy was very pure, with no hype. Today, there are sometimes a thousand people outside, but Mesa Verde is still a house, not a club. I pay attention to the atmosphere, the energy and the respect. The women here know they’re safe. It’s this mix of intimacy, control and joyful chaos that has given 25 its special aura.

As the venue celebrates its 35th anniversary, what’s next?

“For the 35th anniversary, I brought back Maxwell George, who hadn’t played for fifteen years (editor’s note: evening on 13/12). It was like going back to our roots. As for the future, I’d like a new generation to take over one day. As long as it gives me pleasure, I’ll carry on: I like connecting people, creating an atmosphere, putting together an evening like a recipe. I can very well do that until I’m 90.”

11, rue du St Esprit, Luxembourg (Grund)

Retro night.

The Bar Trianon, a retro institution open since 1953, is preparing a stylish New Year’s Eve party. On the programme: caviar and oysters accompanied by a selection of vodkas, an alternative menu for those who prefer other flavours and cocktails created especially for the occasion.

29, bd Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Luxembourg (centre)

All I want for Christmas.

For fans of Rives de Clausen and songs, Big Beer Company is organising its Xmas Karaoke. On 19 December at 10pm.

12, rives de Clausen, Luxembourg (Clausen)

Bubbles.

The Royal Lounge is transformed into a winter cocoon with its large transparent bubbles. In addition to its usual menu, the Luxembourg institution serves original creations based around gin for a cosy interlude amid the hustle and bustle of the city.

12, boulevard Royal, Luxembourg (centre)

Café stories.

Esch by Night takes a trip back to the cafés of Esch-sur-Alzette. For this second evening, come along to the Taverne Battin on 13 December. Daniel Pagliarini and Catherine Hengesch will be mixing accordion with influences from elsewhere. An Escher Theater project with historian Laura Steil.

1, rue Simon Bolivar, Esch-sur-Alzette

Nightshift.

We end 2025 in style with Leen, DJ from Bordeaux and resident of the Gudde Wëllen. She navigates between garage house, afro, broken beats and dub versions with a sure instinct. At the Gudde, the energy remains raw: three floors where you can dance freely, in a messy but benevolent atmosphere. December 20, from 8pm.

17, rue du St Esprit, Luxembourg (centre)

This article was written for the January 2026 issue of Paperjam magazine, published on 10 December. The content is produced exclusively for the magazine. It is published on the site to contribute to the full Paperjam archive. Click this link to subscribe to the magazine.

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