Clovis Degrave is a pragmatist. With his head firmly on his shoulders, he was 15 when he went to hotel school, attracted by management and administration. In the end, it was a whole world he discovered, and in particular cooking, for which he quickly realised he had an affinity. "I'd like to tell you a nice story, to say that this passion was passed on to me by my grandmother, but that's not at all how it happened," he jokes, before adding: "School can also open doors and inspire vocations. My years of study and what I experienced there gave me access to the world of gastronomy, and gave me knowledge and know-how. It's also good to emphasise that cooking isn't necessarily a vocation, something you inherit from someone. Desire, hard work and determination are another way to get there.
When Degrave arrived in Luxembourg he joined Le Sud, alongside Christophe Petra. The Rives de Clausen gourmet restaurant had just lost the star it recently won. He was 22 when he took over from Petra: “It was a risky gamble, but it worked. Obviously, at that age, I still had a lot to learn, but I think this is a profession where you never stop reinventing yourself, learning new techniques and perfecting your skills.”
Degrave likes the fact that every day brings its own surprises. Good or bad, they are all reasons to learn again and again. In 2017, with his partner Aline Bourscheid, he took over the Hostellerie du Grünewald, before embarking on a new project in 2023: Grünewald Chef's Table, a gastronomic counter that is a bit out of the ordinary, but which has immediately found its place in Luxembourg's culinary grammar. Degrave may never stop trying to grow, but he knows that patience is the mother of all virtues. “There's no point in rushing into things. To bring a project to fruition, you need to have all the human and financial resources in hand.” Pragmatic, indeed.
His new project is no exception to the values he advocates. In November, Boos K'fé will return to its former glory. The couple have set about restoring the well-known former nightclub and restaurant. “I'd like to bring back the clientele from before 2017. I want to erase the clubbing image and put the dining experience back at the heart of the establishment.” Of course, people will continue to dance here at weekends, as a tribute to this 100-year-old institution in Bridel, but the impetus is elsewhere. Clovis and his team have developed a brasserie-influenced but chic menu, with some fresh and daring inspirations. In November, .
This article was written for the October 2024 issue of published on 25 September. The content is produced exclusively for the magazine. It is published on the website as a contribution to the complete Paperjam archive.
Is your company a member of the Paperjam+Delano Business Club? You can request a subscription delivered directly in your name. Let us know via